Inner sole and method of making the same



Dee. 18, 1945. F. L. AYERS y 2,391,217

INNERSOLE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April 15, 1944 2 sheets-sheet 1 Dec. 1s, 1945. F. l.. MERS 2,391,217 A INNERSOLE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April l5, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Dec.l 18, 1945 UNITED' 4s'rA'rlz's PATENT oFFlcE nwNER soLE AND METHOD oF MAKING -THE SAME,

Fred L. Ayers, Waltham, Mass.

. Application April 15, 1944, Serial No. 531,140

(cl. se-zz) 25 Claims.

This invention relates to innersoles for shoes and to their manufacture, and has for an object to produce an innersole suitable for making welt shoes and wherein a non-floating stitching-receiving rib of a form particularly suitable for the placing of inseam .stitches is produced, and using relatively thin innersole stock. One of the desirable attributes of the stitch-receiving rib constructed in accordance with this invention resides in the fact that the rib tends to lie inclined sharply inwardly, providing an excellent guide for F the innersole surface, both inwardly and outon the innersole even after it has been trimmed,

since the flexing of the innersole would result in bending this rib widthwise. By inclining the rib sharply inwardly, the bending of the rib when the innersole is flexed, is largely in the direction of the thickness of the rib-rather than its width, in which direction-it is much less stiff.

In accordance with this invention the rib includes a lip formed by inwardly channeling about the margin of an innersole blank, this lip being folded inwardly and reinforced on one or both faces by strips cemented thereto. The reinforcing strip on the inner face may comprise a strip folded longitudinally, the material on one side of the fold line being cemented tn the inner face of the folded lip and the material on the opposite side of 4the fold line being cemented tothe adjacent face of the innersole blank. 'I'he rib may be held in its inwardly extending position by securing the layers of the folded strip together, at least near to the fold line, as by cement or stitches, or in some cases it may be found sufflcient, when the in-turned lip has been folded in under some pressure, to cement a second flat strip against the outer face of the in-turned lip of my application Serial No. 473,612, filed January 26, 1943, each of the parent applications being for Innersole and method of making the same and abandoned in favor of the present application.

For a complete understanding of this invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a 'perspective view showing the rib face of an innersole constructed in accordance with this invention. f

Figure 2 is a perspective View to a larger scalethan Figure 1 Vof a strip which may form a portion of the stitch-receiving rib.

Figure 3 .is a sectional view to a large;` scale on line 3-3 of Figure 1. i

Figure 4 is a view similar to Figure 3, but show ing only the innersole blank, channeled .and made ready for the formation of the stitch-receiving rib.

I Figure 5 is a View similar to Figures 3 and 4,`

but showing the rib partly completed.

Figure 6 is a view similar to a portion of Figure 3, but showing a modification.

Figure 7 is a detail sectional view of a strip showing a construction modified from that oi Figure 2.

Figure 8 is a view similar to Figure 7, but showing a further step in forming up the strip.

Figure 9 is a view similar to a portion of Fig' ure 5, but including the strip shown in Figure 8 Figure 10 is a sectional view similar to Figure 4, but showing the application of a flat reinforcing strip to a channeled innersole blank..

Figure 11 is a view similar to Figure 10, but showing the lip and a portion of the reinforcing strip turned inwardly.

Figure 12 is a view similar to Figure 11, but showing the outer reinforcing strip cemented to the in-turned lip and to the marginal feather of the innersole.

Figure 13 is a view similar to Figure 10, but showing the first reinforcing strip applied at to an unchanneled blank ready for the channeling operation to be performed thereon.

Figure 14 is a fragmentary perspective view of a rib-forming strip of a different construction.

Figure l5 is a diagrammatic perspective view showing a manner of applying the strip of Figure 14 to an innersole blank.

Figure 16 is a, detail sectional view to a larger scale on line Iii-I6 of Figure 15.

Figure 17 is a detail sectional view similar to a portion of Figure 3, but showing the rib-forming strip of Figure 14.

Figure 18 is a perspective view showing the strip of Figure 14 folded prior to its application to the innersole blank.

Figure 19 is a view similar to Figure 16, but

showing the strip folded as in Figure 18, before it is applied to the blank.

Figure 20 is a diagrammatic perspective view showing the application of cement to the strip as or after the strip is applied to the blank.

Figures 21 and 22 are views similar to Figures depending upon how it is desired to last the shank and heel portions of the shoe. This channel is shown at 2 and it forms on one face I of the blank, around the desired extent of its margin, a lip 3. The face 4 of the blank is then coated with cement, such as latex cement, from the extreme outer edge inwardly somewhat beyond the inner end of the channel 2. To this face is then progressively secured by the cement coating. a strip, one form of which is illustrated in Figure 2. This strip 5 is preferably of bias fabric coated on one face with cement, such as a rubber cement, and folded longitudinally on itself with its cement coated face outermost, the line of fold being indicated at 6. The upper and lower layers 9 and 8, respectively, are then secured together adjacent to the fold line 6, as by a line of stitching 1.

The strip 5 may be made of straight cut fabric or tape, or even of unwoven material providing it is of sufficient strength and is otherwiseadapted for its intended use.

As shown the lower layer 8 of this strip is considerably wider than the upper layer 9. The

width of the upper layer 9 is dependent primarily on the width ofthe desired stitch-receiving rib. The width of the lower layer 8 is determined by the strength desired of the adhesion between the strip and the innersole blank and the extent of reinforcement of the innersole desired thereby, it

being understood that the wider this layer, the

better the adhesion and the greater the reinforcement, but the more difficult the conforming of the strip in accordance with the curved contour of the edge of the blank. This strip is progressively applied to the channeled margin of the innersole blank and with its fold line 6 positioned outwardly facing and spaced from the edge ofthe blank by about the depth of the channel 2, and the lip 3 is then raised and bent backwardly to -bring its cement-coated face into contact with the upper cement-coated layer 9 of the strip 5, to

`which it is caused to adhere.

i f 1s and 1v, respectively, but showing the blank reinforcing the lip. the strip I0 also raise-s the surface ofthe innersole margin immediately outwardly of the lip so that :itis brought nearer to the level of the innervfsce of the innersole represented by the top face of the layer 8, so that the welt stitching, when appliedlies close to the face of theinnersole both inside and outside vof the lip. 'I'his strip I0 may be of any thickness desired, and if a single thickness is not sufncient to raise the surface of the innersole margin ,to the desired level, it may be built up of a` plurality of llayers as shown in Figure 6. p

When cold process cement coatings are available, it will not be necessary to coat the faces oi the innersole to properly secure either'- of tapes or strips 5 or I0 in position; Y

In the completed innersolaathe stitching 1 ties l the inwardly projecting-portionof therib to the adjacent portion of the innersole so that the rib inclines sharply inwardly and provides the best possible guide for the inseam vstitching machine.

In some cases it-may bedesiredto increase the thickness of the stitch-receiving rib so as to provide more material to be engaged with the in- 25.

seam stitching than is, provided bythe use of a single fold such as is shown inl Figures 2. 3, 5 and 6. When this is the case, the strip may be folded longitudinally on itself, as shown in Figure 8, to form the lower layer 80 and the upper layer 90, the upper layer 90 being wider than the corresponding layer 9.o! the strip previously described. 'I'he folded strip is stitched together as at 1 adjacent to the line of fold. The upper layer 90 may then. be folded back on itself to bring its cement-coated portions together in a double fold as at 9i as shown in Figure 8. The strip thus made may be applied to the innersole blank in place of the strip 5 of Figure 2, the upper face of the portion 9| be cement-coated, and the lip 3 of the innersole blank bent over and cemented thereagainst. This provides a double thickness of the strip, in which case it may not be desired to apply the additional outer reinforcing tape or strip I0, although such a strip may be applied if desired in the manner shown in Figures 1 and 3.

In Figures 14 to 23 modifications are shown in which instead of securing the folded layers of the rib-forming strip together by a line of stitching adjacent to the line of fold, this securement is effected by cement. Thus vin Figure 14, the strip 5a which may well be of bias tape is provided on one face with a narrow zone of cement 'at 20 ad jacent to the line of fold so that when the strip of tape has been applied to-the margin of the inwardly channeled blank I,.as shown in Figure 16, the blank lip 3 and "the portion of the tape outwardly of the cement zonen may be folded inwardly into the position shown in Figure 17, causing the two layers of the tape to be secured together in face to face contact adjacent to the line of fold only, the edges of the tape being unattached to each othe .Thereafter the reinforcing tape or strip, such as I0, may be applied to the exposed face of the marginal feather 2i of the blank and to the exposed race of the channel lip 3.

In Figure l5 there is shown a method by which the flat tape, as shown in Figure 10, may be progressively applied to the innersole blank, the strip coming from a supply roll 25 and being progressively applied to the channeled face of the blank I by any suitable feeding means which may,

,for example, include a pair of feeding feet, one of which is Ashown at 26, this being a well known type of machine for applying reinforcing tapes,

the blank being supported on the rotary supporting roll 21. In some cases it may be desired to pre-fold the tape or strip, either considerably before or just before it is-applied t the blank, as shown, for example, in Figure 18, in which the f' outer portion 30 of the tape is progressively folded over against the inner portion 3| at or adjacent to the cement zone 20. After the folding operation, the tape may be rolled up for use,

v orif desired, the folding of the tape may be accomplished while the tape is being fed for appli- 5`together to retain the rib inclined inwardly to the desired extent. This is especially true when highly tacky cold process cements are used, and when thel lipfof the innersole. blank is folded back and firmly set as by pressing hammers. The

v flat tape 'or reinforcing strip cemented .to the cation to the blank. This, for example, is shown in Figure 23 where the flat tape passes through a folder 35 on its way to the machine by which it is presented to the face of the innersole blank, the machine being of the general type shown, for example, in Figure 15. In order that the line of fold of this tape or strip may be positioned correctly spaced from the outer margin of the blank for the channel lip to be folded closely thereover in the further'formation of the stitchreceiving rib, the folder 35 may be positioned with reference to the depth of the channel. For this purpose a channel gage 36 may be employed, having a portion 31 adapted to ride against the base of the channel, this gage being secured to a support 38 which carries the folder 35. The folded strip applied to the blank is shown in Figure 19.

In Figure 20 a further method of application is shown, in which a plain tape or strip 5b is presented and secured to the channeled blank I gaged from the outer margin of this blank, and the narrow coating of cement 20 is appliedprogressively thereto from any suitable applicator 40 through a nozzle 4 I, the spacing of which from the edge of the blank is determined by the channel gage 42 adjustably secured to a support 43 for the applicator 40. This insures the positioning of the narrow cement zone at the properv distance from the margin of the blank so that when the channel lip, together with the outer portion of the tape is folded inwardly as shown in Figure 17 the cement zone will be properly located to secure the folded layers of the tape together adjacent to the fold line only. 4

If desired, of course, the innersole blank may be provided with a reinforcement such as a fabric reinforcement 50 as shown in Figures 21 and 22, and the strip applied thereto by any of the methods heretobefore described. Where this is done, it will usually be found desirable to employ a somewhat narrower reinforcing tape which may be folded together substantially centrally as shown in these figures, since the additional reinforcing eifect of a wider-tape portion adhesively secured to the unreinforced blank is of no importance. The use of the narrower rib-forming tape is of some advantage in that it is easier to conform the narrower tape tof the contour of the blank than it is to so conform a wider strip. After the inward lfolding of the channel lip, it may also be found desirable to employ the marginal reinforcing tape III overlying the innersole feather and the in-turned lip as shown in Figure 22.

The desired eect mayvalso be secured where a light cement is used if the cementing is done entirely across the width of the outerv layer of the folded strip 5c, as shown in Figure 24 at 55, the lightness of the cement allowing the outer por# tion of the layer to be pulled away by the side lasting or inseam sewing', by a special tool, or it may be pulled away by the resiliency ofthe lip which `is turned over and cemented to the outer face ofthe lip and to the channel face of the marginal" feather of the innersole also tends to hold the rib in the desired inward inclination, at least until such time as the inseam fastening has been accomplished, after which this inclination is of less importance since most of the rib is trimmed olf during the inseam trimming operation. In accordance with this latter vmethod, the first strip or tape 5d may be applied `fiat t'o the blank as shown in Figure 15, either after the blank has been channeled, as shown in Figure 10, or before the channeling operation as shown in Figure 13. If the tape is applied, after the channeling operation, its position relative to the margin of the shoe may be gaged,'if desired, by the depth of the channel as in Figure 19, the channel being commonly of greater depth at the shank than about the forepart of the innersole. If the first strip is applied before the channeling, it

may increase the ease of channeling, particularly I when the blank is thin or has a texture diilcult to channel without the reinforcing effect of the flat 'strip or tape. The channel lip 3, together with the outer portion of the strip 5d, is then folded inwardly as shown in Figure 12, and is firmly pressed in position, and, preferably, the outer reinforcing layer I0 .is then cemented to the channel face' of the feather and to the outer face of the lip 3 as previously described and as shown in' Figure l2. It will usually be vfound preferable, however, in order to wrinkling ofthe reinforcing vstr ip to apply it folded, asin Figure 19, but without stitching or cementing of the layers together. When so applied, if the line of fold is not initially located suillciently far inwardly to fit the inward turning of the lip, the inward turning of this lip pushes (the upper layer. inwardly and forms a new line of fold at the proper position.

From the foregoing description of certain ernbodiments of this invention, it should be evident to those skilled in kthe art that various other changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit or scope of this invention. f

1. A shoe innersole having a stitch-receiving 'rib and including a longitudinally folded strip,

one layer of which is secured to the face of the innersole with the line of fold facing the margin of the innersole, the upper layer of said strip projecting inwardly from the line of fold and secured in face to face contact with said one layer adjacent tothe line of fold.

42. A shoe innersole'having a stitch-receiving rib and includinga longitudinally folded strip, one layer of which is secured tothe face of the innersole with the'line'of fold facing the marginof the innersole, the upper layer of said strip projecting inwardly from the line of fold and cemented in face to face contact with said one layer adjacent to the line of fold..

3. A shoe innersole having a. stitch-receiving rib and including a longitudinally folded strip.

one layer of which is secured to the face of the.

innersole with the line of fold facing the margin of the innersole, the upper layer of said strip projecting inwardly from the line of fold and stitched in face to face contact with said one layer adjacent to the line of fold only.

4. A shoe innersole comprising a blank externally channeledto form a marginal lip. said innersole having a stitch-receiving rib comprising a longitudinally folded strip with its layers secured together in face to face relation adjacent to the line of fold and secured to the face of said blank inwardly of its margin and with the fold line outwardly facing, said marginal lip being turned inwardly andsecured to the outer face of the outer layer of said folded strip.

5. A shoe innersole comprising a. blank externally channeled to form a marginal lip, said innersole having a'stitch-receiving rib comprising a longitudinally folded fabric tape with its layers secured together in face to face relation adjacent tothe line of fold and cemented to the face of said blank inwardly of its margin and with the fold line outwardly facing, said marglnal lip being turned inwardly and cemented to the outer face of the outer layer of said folded strip.

6. A shoe innersole comprising a blank externally channeled to form. a marginal lip. said innersole having a stitch-receiving rib comprising a longitudinally folded strip with its layers secured together in face to face relation adjacent to the line of fold and secured to the face of said blank inwardly of its margin and with the fold line outwardly facing, the outer layer of said strip being folded back and cemented to form a layer of double thickness, said marginal lip being turned inwardly and secured to the outer face of the outer double layer of said folded strip.

7. A shoe innersole comprising a blank Aexternally channeled to form a. marginal lip, said innersole having a stitch-receiving rib comprising a longitudinally folded strip secured to the face of said blank inwardly of its margin and with the fold line outwardly facing, said marginal lip beingA turned inwardly and secured to the outer face of the outer layer of said folded strip, and a reinforcing strip overlying and cemented to said lip and to said blank outwardly of said lip.

8. A shoe innersole comprising a blank externally channeled toform a marginal lip, said innersole having a stitch-receiving rib comprising a. longitudinally folded strip with its layers secured together in face to face relation adjacent to the line of fold and secured to the face of said blank inwardly of its margin and with the fold line outwardly facing, said marginal lip being turned inwardly and secured to the outer face of the outer layer of said folded strip, and a reinforcing strip overlying and cemented to said lip and to said blank outwardly of said lip.

9. A shoe innersole comprising a blank externally channeled to form a marginal lip, said innersole having a stitch-receiving rib comprising a longitudinally folded fabric tape cemented to the face of said blank inwardly of its margin and with the fold line outwardly facing, said marginal lip being turned inwardly and cemented to the outer face of the .outer layer of said folded strip, and a reinforcing strip overlying and cemented to said lip and to said blank outwardly of said lip.

10. A shoe innersole comprising a blank externally channeled to form a marginal lip, said innersole having a stitch-receiving `rib comprising a longitudinally folded fabric tape with its layers secured together in face to face relation adjacent to the line of fold and cemented to ,the face of said blank inwardly of its margin and with the fold line outwardly facing, said marginal lip being turned inwardly and cemented to the outer face of the outer layer of said folded strip, and a reinforcing strip overlying and cemented to said lip and to said blank outwardly of said lip.

11. 'I'he method of making an innersole, which comprises folding inwardly the marginal lip and a portion of the reinforcement of an inwardly channeled innersole blank reinforced about its edge by a flat strip cemented to the lip face of said blank, and then cementing a at strip to the exposed face of said lip and to the channel face of said innersole feather outwardly of said lip.

l2. 'I'he method of making an innersole, which comprises channeling inwardly about the margin' of at least the forepart of an innersole blank to form a lip on one face of said blank and a feather 'on the opposite face of said blank, cementing a at strip of reinforcing material to the lip face of said blank about its margin substantially throughout the length of channeling, folding inwardly said lip and the portion of said strip secured thereto, and then cementing a flat/strip to the exposed faces of said lip and to the channelface of said feather outwardly of said lip.

13. 'I'he method of making an innersole, which comprises cementing to one face of an innersole -blank about the margin of at least the forepart a fiat strip of reinforcing material, inwardly channeling said blank about its margin substantially coextensive with thelength of said strip to form a, lip including a widthwise portion of said strip, folding said lip inwardly, and cementing a flat strip to the exposed face of said lip and the channel face of said feather outwardly of said lip.

14. The method of making an' innersole, which comprises inwardly channeling about at least the forepart of an innersole blank to form a. marginal lip on one face, progressively cementing to said f ace about and inwardly of said margin a tape folded longitudinally with the line of fold outwardly facing, and progressively turning said lip of said folded strip.

15. The method of making an innersole, which comprises inwardly channeling about at least the forepart of an innersole blank to form a marginal lip on one face, progressively lcementing to said face about and inwardly of said margin,` a tape folded longitudinally with the line of fold outwardly facing, progressively turning said lip inwardly and cementing it against the upper layer ofrsaid folded. strip and progressively ceinenting a at layer of strip material against the I outer face of said lip and the channel face of the marginal feather outwardly ofl said lip.

16. The method of making an innersole, which comprises inwardly channeling about at least the forepart of an innersole blank to form a marginal lip on one face, applying cement to said face over and somewhat inwardly of said lip, providing a cement-coated tape folded longitudinally with thc coated face outwardly, the two folded layers being secured together in face to face relation adjacent -to the line of fold, progressively applying said tape to the cemented face of said blank inwardly of said lip and with the fold line outwardly facing, and then bending the lip backwardly andinwardly against the cement-coated to each other in face to face contact adjacent to outer layer afraid folded in auch position. 1'1. The method of making an innersole, which strip to secure the lip lcormprises inwardly' channeling about at least the v forepart of arr innersole blank to form a marginal lip on one face, applying cement to said face over and somewhat inwardly of said lip, providing a cement-coated tape folded longitudinally with the coated faceoutwardly, the two folded.

layers being' secured together in face to face relation adjacent ,to the line of fold, progressively applyingsaid tape to the cementedface of said blank inwardly of said'lip and with the fold line outwardly facing, bending the lip backwardly and inwardly against the cement-coated outer layer of said foldedI strip,.and then cementing a tape longitudinally againstthe margin of `said blank outwardly of said lip and up and over the exposed face of, said lip.

18. The method of making an innersole, which comprises inwardly channeling about at least the forepart of an innersole blank to form ya r. arginal lip on one face, applying cement to said face over and somewhat inwardly of said lip, providinga cement-coated tape folded longitudinally. with the coated face outwardly; the two folded layers being secured together in face to and said Y face relation adjacent to the line of fol top layer being folded back on itself to form a layer of double thickness, progressively applying said tape to the cemented face of said blank inwardly of said lip and with the fold line outwardly facing, and then bending the lip backwardly and inwardly against and cementing it v to the outer face of said double thickness layer.

19.. The method of making an innersole. which comprises inwardly channeling an innersole blank about itsgmargin at least about the forepart, providing a tape folded longitudinally and with the folded parts secured together in face to face relation adjacent to theline of fold, progressivelyV securing said folded tape to one face of the blank with the line of fold outwardly facing and at a distance from the outer margin dependent upon the depth of the channel, andthen lifting and folding inwardly and securing the lip resulting from the line of fold, and securing one face of said folded tape to said blank face with the line of the channeling operatn against the upper layer e `ofeaid folded strip.

A zo. The method of making an innersole, which comprises inwardly channeling an innersole blank about its margin at least about the forepart, providlng a tape folded longitudinally and with the folded parts secured togethe;` in face to face re- Y lation adjacent to the line of fold. progressively curing said folded tape to one face of the blank with the line of fold outwardly facing and at a ldistance from the outer margin dependent upon the depth of the channel, and then lifting'and Y folding inwardly and securingthe lip resulting from the channeling operation against the upper layer of said folded strip and thereafter cementfold outwardly facing and located inwardly from said margin by approximately the width of said lip, and then lifting and folding inwardly and se curing said lip to the outer layer of said folded tape. e

`'22. 'I'he method of making an innersole, which comprises inwardly channeling an innersole blank about its margin at least about the forepart to provide a lip adjacent to one face thereof, providing a tape having a narrow cement-coated zone extending longitudinally thereof on one face, progressively folding said tape longitudinally along said zone to cause the layers of tape to adhere to each other in face to face contact adjacent to the line of fold, and securing one face of said folded tape to said blankface with the line of fold outwardly facing and located inwardly from said margin by approximately the width of said lip. then lifting and foldinginwardly and securing said lip tothe outer layer of said folded tape,

at approximately the depth of the channel, and

then turning inwardly said lip and the outer portion of said strip over an'd against the inner -portion of said strip and causing the adhesive in saidv zone to secure the layers of said strip together adjacent to a line of fold of said strip in face to face relation.

24. The method of making an innersole, which comprises inwardly channeling about the margin of an innersole blank around vat least the forepart to form a marginal lip on one face. progressively securing to said face about its margin a tape. progressively applying adhesive to anarrow zone intermediate to the side edges of said tape while gagng the position of said zone in accordance with the depth of said channel, and thereafter raising said lip and that widthwise portion of the tape secured thereto and folding said lip and portion inwardly causing said adhesive to secure the, folded layers of said tape together adjacent to the line of fold.

25.V The method of making an innersole, which comprises inwardly channeling about the margin of an innersole blank around at least the forepart 1 to form a marginal lip on one face, progressively ing a tape to the exposed face of said inwardly foldedlip and the exposed face of the marginal feather of the blank.

2l.' The method of making an innersole, which comprises inwardly channeling an innersole blank Valliant its margin at least about the forepart to provide a lip adjacent to one face thereof,v providing a tape having a narrow cement-coated zone longitudinally thereof on one face, proextending greesively folding said tape longitudinally along eaidaonetocaule-tbellnnoftapetoadhere `securing to said face including said lip a strip of vtape provided with a narrow zone of adhesive be.

tween its side edges. and thereafterlifting and folding inwardly said lip including that part of the tapeoutwardly of said zone against that part of the tape inwardly of said zone and causing Said adhesive to secure together the adjacent faces of the folded tape adjacent to the 4line offold.

and applying a reinforcingtape to the featherv left by the channeling operation and to the exposed face of said inwardly folded lip.

sarcasme.' 

